---
name: permit-research
description: |
  Guides the user through the process of determining whether a home improvement project requires a building permit, how to research local requirements, and how to navigate the permit application process. Produces a research checklist and permit decision framework.
  Use when the user asks whether they need a permit, how to find local building codes, how to apply for a building permit, or what happens if they skip a permit.
  Do NOT use for commercial construction permits, zoning variance applications, or specific jurisdiction permit rules (this skill teaches the research process, not jurisdiction-specific requirements).
license: Apache-2.0
metadata:
  author: foundry-skills
  version: "1.0.0"
  tags: "home-maintenance checklist planning"
  category: "home-household"
  subcategory: "home-maintenance"
  depends: ""
  disclaimer: "none"
  difficulty: "beginner"
---
# Permit Research

## When to Use

**Use this skill when:**
- A homeowner asks whether a specific project -- deck, addition, basement finish, HVAC replacement, fence, accessory dwelling unit (ADU), solar panels, EV charger, pool, generator installation -- requires a building permit
- A user wants to know how to locate and navigate their local building department, find permit fee schedules, or understand what documents to prepare
- A user is planning a DIY home improvement project and needs to understand the permit application workflow, inspection sequence, and what triggers a final certificate of occupancy or completion
- A user is concerned about the consequences of work done without a permit -- whether inherited from a previous owner or completed by a contractor who skipped the permit -- and wants to understand their options
- A user is buying or selling a home and needs to understand what unpermitted work means for the transaction, appraisal, or title
- A user has received a stop-work order or a notice of violation from a local building department and needs to understand the process of resolving it through retroactive permitting
- A user wants to understand the difference between a building permit, an electrical permit, a plumbing permit, a mechanical permit, a zoning approval, and a certificate of occupancy -- and which applies to their project
- A user is preparing to hire a contractor and wants to verify the contractor will pull permits rather than skip them

**Do NOT use when:**
- The user needs jurisdiction-specific permit rules stated as definitive requirements -- this skill teaches the research process; direct them to verify with their local authority having jurisdiction (AHJ)
- The user is applying for a commercial building permit, tenant improvement permit, or change-of-occupancy permit for a commercial space (different regulatory framework -- refer to a commercial construction or permitting skill)
- The user needs a zoning variance, special use permit, or conditional use permit -- these are land-use approvals through a planning or zoning board, not building permits, and involve public hearing processes
- The user needs to challenge a permit denial, appeal a building code enforcement action, or contest a stop-work order in a formal proceeding (legal or administrative dispute resolution)
- The user needs contractor licensing information -- contractor license requirements are separate from, though related to, permit-pulling authority, and vary by state and trade
- The user needs environmental permits (NEPA review, wetlands permits, coastal development permits) -- these are regulated by separate state and federal agencies outside local building departments
- The user is in a US territory or outside the United States -- the International Residential Code (IRC) framework described here applies to most US jurisdictions; other countries use entirely different regulatory structures

---

## Process

### Step 1 -- Identify the Project Scope Precisely Before Looking Up Any Requirements

Before researching permit requirements, define the exact scope of work. A vague description like "bathroom remodel" can range from a permit-exempt cosmetic update to a multi-permit project. Ask clarifying questions to lock down the scope.

- **Determine what is being changed, moved, or added** -- not just the room or area. The permit trigger is almost always tied to a specific trade or structural action, not the room it happens in.
- Use these five scope dimensions to classify every project:
  1. **Structural** -- Is anything being added to, removed from, or modified within the load-bearing or lateral-force-resisting system? (Walls, beams, columns, foundations, rooflines)
  2. **Electrical** -- Is new wiring, a new circuit, a panel upgrade, or a new service entrance involved? Is an existing circuit being extended?
  3. **Plumbing** -- Is new pipe being run, an existing drain or supply rerouted, or a new fixture location added? (Replacing a toilet in the exact same location is typically exempt; moving it 12 inches requires a plumbing permit in most jurisdictions)
  4. **Mechanical/HVAC** -- Is a new appliance being installed, existing ductwork reconfigured, or a gas line modified?
  5. **Change of use or occupancy** -- Is an unfinished or non-habitable space (basement, garage, attic) being converted to finished, habitable square footage?
- Projects that touch two or more of these dimensions almost universally require permits. Projects that touch zero are almost universally exempt.
- Note the project size in square feet and linear feet where relevant -- many exemptions are triggered by thresholds (a deck under 200 sq ft and under 30 inches above grade is exempt from permit in many jurisdictions using the IRC; sheds under 120 sq ft on skids rather than a permanent foundation are frequently exempt).
- Identify whether the home is a single-family detached residence, an attached townhouse, a condominium unit, or a manufactured/mobile home -- each has different regulatory treatment.

---

### Step 2 -- Apply the General Permit Framework to Form a Preliminary Assessment

Use the tables below to form an educated starting hypothesis before the user contacts their building department. Frame this explicitly as a starting point, not a final answer.

**Projects that require a permit in nearly all US jurisdictions:**

| Project | Why It Triggers a Permit |
|---|---|
| Any structural wall removal or modification | Affects building's load path; inspectors verify header sizing, temporary shoring, connection details |
| Room addition or bump-out | New foundation, framing, electrical, and plumbing; triggers full code review |
| Deck attached to the house over 200 sq ft or over 30" above grade | Ledger attachment, footing depth, guardrail requirements are life-safety issues |
| New bathroom or bathroom relocation | New plumbing rough-in requires rough-in inspection before walls close |
| Electrical panel upgrade or service entrance work | Utility company may also require their own approval before energizing |
| New HVAC system or furnace/AC replacement | Refrigerant handling, gas connections, and duct sizing require mechanical inspection |
| Water heater replacement (gas) | Gas connection and pressure-temperature relief valve installation are safety-critical |
| Full roof replacement (structural sheathing replacement or rafter repair) | Structural inspection; some jurisdictions also require permit for re-roofing over existing shingles |
| Basement finishing converting unfinished space to habitable rooms | Egress requirements, ceiling heights, insulation values, electrical, and plumbing all triggered |
| Garage conversion to living space (ADU or bonus room) | Change of occupancy; fire separation from living space required |
| Detached accessory dwelling unit (ADU) | Owner-occupancy requirements, utility connections, and setbacks all apply |
| Swimming pool or hot tub (in-ground or above-ground over certain sizes) | Barrier/fence requirements, electrical bonding, gas or electrical connection |
| Solar panel installation | Electrical connection to panel; some jurisdictions also require structural review of roof loading |
| EV charger (Level 2, 240V) | New 240V circuit; permit required in virtually all jurisdictions |
| Generator with transfer switch | Electrical connection; transfer switch prevents back-feed to utility lines |
| Fireplace or wood stove installation | Clearances, flue sizing, combustion air -- fire safety review |

**Projects that typically do NOT require a permit in most US jurisdictions:**

| Project | Notes |
|---|---|
| Interior painting | No exceptions |
| Wallpaper, trim replacement, crown molding | Cosmetic only |
| Replacing a light fixture at an existing outlet box | Same-location, same-circuit fixture swap |
| Replacing a faucet or toilet at the same location | Like-for-like swap, no pipe work |
| Installing new flooring over existing subfloor | LVP, hardwood, tile over existing structure |
| Replacing kitchen cabinets (no plumbing or electrical move) | No rough-in changes |
| Countertop replacement | No structural or trade work |
| Drywall patching and repair | Not structural |
| Insulation in existing wall cavities (no framing work) | Some jurisdictions require for attic insulation upgrades |
| Shelving, closet organizers, built-ins (no electrical) | Not structural or trade |
| Landscaping, planting, minor grading | Significant grading (over 50 cubic yards or altering drainage patterns) may need a grading permit |
| Painting exterior, replacing gutters | Cosmetic maintenance |
| Replacing windows same size in existing opening | Like-for-like in most jurisdictions; see gray area below |

**Gray area projects -- outcome varies significantly by jurisdiction:**

| Project | Key Variables | Common Outcomes |
|---|---|---|
| Water heater replacement (electric) | Gas vs. electric; whether it's in same location | Gas always requires permit in most places; electric varies |
| Window replacement | Same opening vs. enlarged opening; historic district | Same-size swap: exempt in many places; any structural change requires permit |
| Fence installation | Height threshold (commonly 6 feet), material, location near property line or easement | Heights under 4 feet are often exempt; over 6 feet almost always requires permit |
| Shed or outbuilding | Size threshold (120 sq ft most common exemption), permanent foundation vs. skids | On skids under 120 sq ft: often exempt; on concrete, any size: usually requires permit |
| Deck under 200 sq ft and under 30" above grade | Many jurisdictions use IRC exemption; local amendments vary | Frequently exempt but requires zero setback violations regardless |
| Re-roofing (overlay, no structural work) | Whether jurisdiction has adopted the IRC re-roofing permit requirement | About half of jurisdictions require it; half exempt it |
| Attic conversion to livable space | Headroom (typically 7.5 feet minimum over 50% of floor area per IRC), egress, structural loading | Almost always requires permit; the question is what inspections are required |
| Retaining wall | Height threshold (commonly 4 feet from bottom of footing) | Under 4 feet: often exempt; over 4 feet: almost always requires structural review |

---

### Step 3 -- Research the Local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ)

The "authority having jurisdiction" is the technical term for the specific government body responsible for permit review and inspection. Identifying the correct AHJ is the most important step -- many homeowners contact the wrong office and get incorrect or incomplete information.

**Identify the correct AHJ:**
- For homes within city or town limits: the city or town building department
- For homes in unincorporated county territory (not within city limits): the county building department or county public works department
- Some states (California, New Jersey, Connecticut) have state-level agencies that adopt building codes that local jurisdictions must use; a few states allow localities to adopt their own codes
- Tribal lands have separate regulatory authority; contact the tribe's building department or the Bureau of Indian Affairs
- Military bases and federal properties: the Department of Defense or GSA has jurisdiction, not local government -- this is extremely rare for residential

**Find the building department:**
- Use the search string: "[city name] building department permits" or "[county name] building department residential permits"
- Look for the official government website (.gov or city-specific domain like cityofspringfield.org)
- Navigate to the "Building," "Development Services," "Planning and Development," or "Community Development" department -- the name varies
- Look for a fee schedule, permit application forms, and a list of project types that require permits -- these are the most reliable self-service resources
- Check whether the jurisdiction uses an online permit portal: many municipalities now use platforms like ePermitHub, Accela, or their own custom portal for online applications and inspection scheduling

**Call the permit desk directly:**
- This is the single most reliable source of information -- building department counter staff answer these questions all day
- Call during non-peak hours (mid-morning on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, or Thursdays -- Monday mornings and Friday afternoons are typically busiest)
- Lead with the specific project description: "I am a homeowner at [address] and I am planning to [specific project]. Does this require a permit? And do I need separate permits for building, electrical, and plumbing, or is there a combined residential permit?"
- Ask for the staff member's name and document the response -- in a dispute, documented verbal guidance from building department staff can carry weight, though written confirmation is better
- If the answer is unclear, ask: "Can you point me to the section of the building code or your local ordinance that covers this?" This is not aggressive -- building officials routinely cite code sections

**Verify the code version in effect:**
- Ask which edition of the International Residential Code (IRC), National Electrical Code (NEC), International Mechanical Code (IMC), and International Plumbing Code (IPC) the jurisdiction has adopted
- Also ask about local amendments -- these are locally enacted modifications to the model codes that change specific requirements
- Most US jurisdictions as of 2024 have adopted the 2018 or 2021 IRC, though some jurisdictions lag (California uses its own California Residential Code based on the 2022 IRC with extensive amendments)
- The NEC edition matters especially for electrical -- the 2020 NEC introduced AFCI requirements in all 120V circuits in dwelling units; knowing whether your jurisdiction has adopted it affects what a new electrical permit will require

---

### Step 4 -- Check for Parallel Approval Requirements Beyond the Building Permit

A building permit is frequently not the only approval required. Failing to identify parallel requirements leads to expensive mid-project stops.

**Homeowner Association (HOA):**
- HOA architectural review is a separate, private contractual process and does not replace the need for a building permit
- Many HOAs require written architectural approval before any exterior modification, addition, or visible structural change
- Some HOAs have restrictions tighter than building codes -- setbacks from fences, exterior material requirements, color restrictions
- Process: Submit the HOA architectural review application first (these can take 30-60 days for board approval); then apply for the building permit
- Proceeding with a building permit without HOA approval can result in forced removal of completed work -- the HOA's CC&Rs are enforceable civil contracts, not just suggestions

**Historic District Review:**
- If the home is in a designated local historic district or is individually listed on the National Register of Historic Places (NRHP), exterior changes require review by the local historic preservation commission or landmarks commission
- Interior changes to NRHP-listed properties are generally not regulated by the historic review process, but this varies by local ordinance
- Historic review is separate from the building permit -- it must typically be completed before the building permit is issued
- For National Register properties, using historic tax credits (if applicable) requires following the Secretary of the Interior's Standards for Rehabilitation, which have specific requirements about reversibility and material compatibility

**Flood Zone Regulations:**
- If the property is in a FEMA Special Flood Hazard Area (Zone AE, Zone A, Zone VE, etc.), FEMA's National Flood Insurance Program (NFIP) rules impose additional requirements through local ordinances
- Improvements to a structure in a flood zone that cost more than 50% of the structure's pre-improvement market value (the "50% rule" or substantial improvement rule) trigger a requirement to bring the entire structure into current flood zone compliance -- including elevating the lowest floor above the Base Flood Elevation (BFE)
- This threshold accumulates over a rolling period (typically 10 years in most jurisdances) -- a $30,000 basement finish on a $70,000-valued structure in a flood zone could trigger substantial improvement status
- Verify flood zone status at FEMA's Flood Map Service Center (use the address-based lookup tool)

**Fire Hazard Severity Zone (California and similar):**
- California High Fire Hazard Severity Zones (HFHSZ) impose additional requirements for roofing materials (Class A minimum), ember-resistant vents, and defensible space
- Other western states with high fire risk have similar zone-based requirements adopted at the state or local level

**Utility Company Approvals:**
- Solar panel interconnection requires utility company approval separate from the building permit
- Electrical service upgrades (100A to 200A or 400A) require utility disconnect and reconnection; the utility may require their own inspection before restoring service
- Gas service for new appliances may require a gas company inspection in some jurisdictions

---

### Step 5 -- Determine the Permit Application Requirements for This Specific Project

Once the user knows they need a permit, help them understand exactly what to prepare for the application. Generic advice to "get a permit" is not useful -- the user needs to know what documents to gather.

**Typical documents required by project type:**

| Project | Typical Documents Required |
|---|---|
| Deck addition | Site plan (property lines, house footprint, deck location, setbacks), deck framing plan (joist spacing, beam sizes, post spacing), footing details (diameter and depth), connection details (ledger bolts, post bases), guardrail details |
| Bathroom addition (new rough-in) | Floor plan with plumbing fixture locations, drain and vent diagram, connection to existing stack, water supply routing |
| Electrical panel upgrade | Load calculation (required by NEC Article 220), existing and proposed panel schedule, service entrance conductor sizing |
| Room addition | Full construction drawings: site plan, foundation plan, floor plan, exterior elevations, wall sections, roof plan, window/door schedule, energy compliance documentation (Manual J heat load calculation in many jurisdictions) |
| Basement finish | Floor plan showing room layout, egress window locations and dimensions, electrical plan, plumbing plan (if bathroom added), insulation and vapor barrier details |
| ADU | Full construction drawings plus utility connection details, fire separation details if attached to main dwelling, owner-occupancy affidavit (required in some states) |
| Solar panels | Site plan showing panel locations, structural calculation for roof loading, single-line electrical diagram, equipment cut sheets |
| HVAC replacement | Equipment specifications (SEER rating, BTU output), Manual J heat load calculation, duct sizing diagram (if new ductwork) |

**Owner-drawn plans vs. architect/engineer-stamped drawings:**
- Most residential projects under a certain threshold (varies by jurisdiction) can be submitted with owner-drawn or contractor-drawn plans -- no licensed architect or structural engineer is required
- However, any structural element that deviates from prescriptive IRC requirements (span tables, conventional construction rules) requires a licensed structural engineer's stamp
- Common situations requiring a structural engineer: LVL beams, steel columns, non-standard roof trusses, foundation modifications, retaining walls over 4 feet
- California requires architect or engineer involvement on a broader range of projects than most states

**Permit fees -- how they are calculated:**
- Most jurisdictions calculate permit fees based on project valuation (the estimated cost of construction, sometimes using a standardized building valuation table published by the ICC)
- Typical fee structures: a flat fee for small projects (water heater: $50-$150) plus a percentage of valuation for larger projects ($6-$15 per $1,000 of construction value is common)
- Separate trade permits (electrical, plumbing, mechanical) typically have their own flat fees: $75-$200 each
- Plan check fees (for projects requiring document review) are often 65% of the permit fee, charged at time of application
- Large urban jurisdictions charge significantly more: a room addition permit in Los Angeles or New York City can cost $1,500-$5,000 in fees alone
- Budget for permit fees as 0.5% to 2% of total project cost -- this is a reasonable planning estimate

---

### Step 6 -- Map the Inspection Sequence for the Permitted Project

Inspections are not optional checkpoints -- they are contractual milestones that must be passed before proceeding. Understanding the sequence prevents the most common and costly permit mistake: covering up work before the inspector approves it.

**Standard inspection sequence for residential projects:**

| Inspection Stage | What the Inspector Checks | When to Schedule | Consequences of Missing |
|---|---|---|---|
| Foundation/Footing | Footing dimensions, depth, rebar placement, soil bearing | Before pouring concrete | Must expose footing or core sample concrete to verify -- extremely expensive retroactively |
| Underground plumbing | Below-slab drain and supply routing, slope, cleanout locations | Before pouring slab | Must break up slab to expose -- $5,000-$20,000 mistake |
| Rough framing | Structural connections, header sizes, shear walls, backing for fixtures | After framing complete, before insulation | Must open walls to expose framing |
| Rough electrical | Wire sizing, circuit routing, box fill calculations, grounding | Same window as rough framing | Must open walls to expose wiring |
| Rough plumbing | Drain slope (1/4" per foot minimum for 3" and 4" drain), vent connections, pressure test on supply lines | Same window as rough framing | Must open walls to expose piping |
| Rough mechanical | Duct routing, equipment connections, combustion air | Same window as rough framing | Must expose ductwork |
| Insulation | R-values, vapor barrier placement, attic baffles | After insulation installed, before drywall | Must remove and reinstall drywall |
| Drywall nailing/sheathing | Nail pattern on structural sheathing for shear walls | After drywall hung, before taping | Must expose nail field |
| Final building | Overall completion, exit signs, stairs and guardrails, smoke/CO detectors | After all work complete | Project cannot be occupied or used until passed |
| Final electrical | Panel labeling, GFCI/AFCI protection, device installation | After all devices installed | See above |
| Final plumbing | Fixture installation, water heater connections, water pressure test | After all fixtures installed | See above |
| Final mechanical | Equipment operation test, filter access, exhaust fan CFM | After equipment commissioned | See above |

**Scheduling inspections:**
- Most jurisdictions require 24-48 hours advance notice for inspection scheduling
- Many jurisdictions now offer online inspection scheduling through the same portal used for permit applications
- Inspectors typically give a 4-hour window (AM or PM); some jurisdictions offer 2-hour windows or text notifications when the inspector is en route
- If an inspection fails, the inspector writes a "correction notice" listing specific code sections that were not met; the homeowner or contractor corrects the items and requests a re-inspection
- Multiple failed re-inspections may trigger additional fees (many jurisdictions charge for the third re-inspection and beyond)

---

### Step 7 -- Address the Consequences of Skipping or Inheriting Unpermitted Work

This is the most emotionally loaded part of the conversation -- users sometimes want validation for skipping a permit. Do not provide that validation, but do give a complete, nuanced picture.

**The five categories of risk from unpermitted work:**

1. **Insurance coverage gaps:** Most homeowners insurance policies exclude damage caused by code violations. If unpermitted electrical wiring causes a fire, or unpermitted plumbing causes a flood, the insurer can deny the claim citing the code violation as a contributing cause. This is not hypothetical -- insurers routinely conduct post-claim investigations that uncover unpermitted work. The financial exposure is the full cost of the damage, not just the permit fee.

2. **Resale complications:** In most states, sellers must disclose known unpermitted work on the seller's disclosure form. Failure to disclose is a basis for rescission of the sale and civil liability after closing. Buyers' agents routinely pull permit records during due diligence -- unpermitted additions or improvements show up as a gap between the permitted square footage in permit records and the actual finished square footage. Lenders may require unpermitted work to be permitted and inspected before closing on a mortgage.

3. **Appraisal impacts:** FHA and VA appraisers are required to flag unpermitted improvements. The unpermitted square footage may be excluded from the comparable analysis, reducing the appraised value. Fannie Mae guidelines (used by most conventional lenders) allow unpermitted ADUs to be included in appraised value only if they meet specific conditions -- non-conforming unpermitted space may not be counted at all.

4. **Municipal enforcement:** Most jurisdictions have a mechanism for neighbors or buyers to file complaints about suspected unpermitted work. A building inspector can issue a Notice of Violation requiring correction within a set timeframe (typically 30-90 days). Stop-work orders can be issued for work in progress. Fines range from $100/day for minor violations in rural jurisdictions to $1,000/day for repeat violations in urban areas. In extreme cases, jurisdictions can place a lien on the property.

5. **Safety:** Building inspections are not bureaucratic box-checking. The rough electrical inspection catches under-sized wiring, missing arc-fault protection, and overloaded circuits before they are buried in walls. The rough plumbing inspection catches improper drain slope and missing traps that cause slow drains or sewer gas infiltration. The rough framing inspection catches missing or undersized headers that can cause roof collapse under snow load. These are real failure modes with documented casualties.

**Retroactive permitting (as-built permits):**
- Many jurisdictions allow retroactive permits for unpermitted work that was already completed
- The process typically requires the homeowner to open walls, ceilings, or floors to expose the work for inspection -- just as if it were still in progress
- Retroactive permit fees are often 2-3x standard fees as a penalty for not permitting initially
- If the work does not meet current code and cannot be brought into compliance without full removal, the jurisdiction can require removal -- this is the worst-case outcome
- Some jurisdictions have amnesty programs where unpermitted work can be legalized with reduced penalties during a specific window -- worth checking if the user has inherited a home with known unpermitted work

---

### Step 8 -- Help the User Prepare the Right Questions for the Building Department

Translate all of the above research into a specific, efficient set of questions the user can ask when they contact their building department. Generic research stops here and personalized guidance begins.

- Lead with the specific project description including dimensions and trade work involved
- Ask about the combined vs. separate permit question -- some jurisdictions issue a single residential remodel permit covering all trades; others require separate building, electrical, plumbing, and mechanical permits, each with their own fee
- Ask about owner-builder exemptions -- many states allow a homeowner-occupant to pull their own permits for work on their primary residence without a contractor license; this is called the "owner-builder" exemption and it has conditions (the homeowner must occupy the home, cannot immediately sell, and in some states must pass a competency exam for certain trades)
- Ask about plan check turnaround time -- this is the most variable part of the timeline (1 week for an express plan check in a small municipality; 6-12 weeks for a room addition in a large urban jurisdiction with a plan check backlog)
- Ask whether they offer over-the-counter permit issuance for simple projects (many jurisdictions issue permits over the counter for water heaters, electrical panel replacements, re-roofing, and similar standard projects with no custom plan review)
- Ask whether they have a "pre-application" or "pre-submittal" meeting option -- many jurisdictions offer a free or low-cost meeting with a plan checker before the formal application to catch problems early

---

## Output Format

```
## Permit Research: [Project Description]
**Property Address:** [if provided]
**Jurisdiction:** [city/county, if known -- otherwise "to be determined"]
**Date of Research:** [date]

---

### Phase 1 -- Preliminary Permit Assessment

| Assessment Dimension | Finding |
|---|---|
| Project scope | [Specific list of work: structural / electrical / plumbing / mechanical / change of use] |
| Permit likelihood | [Almost certain required / Likely required / Gray area / Likely not required] |
| Primary permit trigger(s) | [The specific element(s) that trigger a permit in most jurisdictions] |
| Permit type(s) likely needed | [Building / Electrical / Plumbing / Mechanical / Combined residential -- or "to verify"] |
| Trade permits potentially needed | [List trades separately if applicable] |
| Parallel approvals to check | [HOA / Historic review / Flood zone / Utility company / None apparent] |

**Confidence level in this assessment:** [High / Medium / Low]
**Why confidence is [level]:** [Specific reason -- e.g., "plumbing rough-in is a near-universal permit trigger" or "deck size is near a common exemption threshold -- must verify local rule"]

---

### Phase 2 -- Research Action Plan

**Step 1 -- Identify the correct Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ):**
- [ ] Confirm whether the property address is within city limits or in unincorporated county territory (search the county assessor's website using the parcel number or address)
- [ ] Search: "[city/county name] building department residential permits"
- [ ] Locate official government website (.gov or official city domain)
- [ ] Find permit fee schedule, permit application forms, and "Do I Need a Permit?" FAQ

**Step 2 -- Call the permit desk:**
- Best time to call: Tuesday-Thursday, mid-morning
- Ask: "I am a homeowner at [address] and I want to [specific project description with dimensions]. Does this require a permit? Do I need separate trade permits, or is there a combined residential permit?"
- Ask: "What documents do I need to submit with the application?"
- Ask: "How long is your current plan check turnaround time?"
- Ask: "Can I as a homeowner-occupant pull my own permits, or does my jurisdiction require licensed contractors for [specific trades]?"
- Document who you spoke with and the date

**Step 3 -- Check parallel approvals:**
- [ ] [Check HOA CC&Rs and architectural guidelines -- contact HOA board or management company] -- if applicable
- [ ] [Verify property is not in a local historic district -- search "[city] historic preservation map" or contact the planning department] -- if applicable
- [ ] [Check FEMA flood zone status if project involves additions or significant improvements -- use FEMA Flood Map Service Center address lookup] -- if applicable
- [ ] [Contact utility company regarding service upgrade, interconnection, or disconnect requirements] -- if applicable

**Step 4 -- Verify building code version:**
- [ ] Ask which edition of the IRC, NEC, IPC, and IMC is currently adopted
- [ ] Ask about significant local amendments affecting this project

---

### Phase 3 -- If a Permit Is Required: Application Preparation

| Document | Required for This Project | Status |
|---|---|---|
| Site plan (property lines, structure footprint, setbacks, project location) | [Yes/No/Verify] | [ ] To prepare |
| Floor plan with dimensions | [Yes/No/Verify] | [ ] To prepare |
| Plumbing diagram (drain, vent, supply routing) | [Yes/No/Verify] | [ ] To prepare |
| Electrical single-line diagram or load calculation | [Yes/No/Verify] | [ ] To prepare |
| Structural details (beam sizes, footing depths, connection details) | [Yes/No/Verify] | [ ] To prepare |
| Elevation drawings (for exterior changes) | [Yes/No/Verify] | [ ] To prepare |
| Engineer's stamp (if non-prescriptive structural work) | [Yes/No/Verify] | [ ] To obtain |
| Equipment specifications/cut sheets | [Yes/No/Verify] | [ ] To obtain |
| Energy compliance documentation | [Yes/No/Verify] | [ ] To prepare |

**Estimated permit fees:** $[range] -- based on [valuation method or flat fee structure]
**Estimated plan check turnaround:** [timeframe -- or "verify with building department"]
**Application method:** [Online portal / In-person / Mail -- verify locally]

---

### Phase 4 -- Inspection Sequence Checklist

List only the inspections relevant to this specific project:

- [ ] **[Inspection type]** -- Schedule when: [specific milestone] -- Do NOT cover until passed
- [ ] **[Inspection type]** -- Schedule when: [specific milestone] -- Do NOT cover until passed
- [ ] **Final inspection** -- Schedule when: all work complete and ready for occupancy

**How to schedule inspections:** [Online portal / Phone -- verify locally]
**Notice required:** [24-48 hours -- verify locally]

---

### Phase 5 -- Risk Assessment

| Risk Category | Specific Risk for This Project | Severity |
|---|---|---|
| Insurance coverage | [Specific scenario: e.g., "Fire from unpermitted electrical wiring may not be covered"] | High / Medium / Low |
| Resale / appraisal | [Specific scenario: e.g., "Finished basement square footage may be excluded from appraisal without permits"] | High / Medium / Low |
| Municipal enforcement | [Specific risk given project visibility and type] | High / Medium / Low |
| Safety | [Specific life-safety concern: e.g., "Improperly sized deck ledger connection is a collapse risk"] | High / Medium / Low |
| Retroactive permitting cost if discovered | [Estimated complexity: e.g., "Would require opening walls -- high cost"] | High / Medium / Low |

---

### Phase 6 -- Specific Questions to Ask the Building Department

1. [Project-specific question about whether this exact scope requires a permit]
2. [Question about which trade permits are required and whether they can be combined]
3. [Question about owner-builder eligibility for the specific trades involved]
4. [Question about the most critical document or drawing required for this application]
5. Does the current plan check backlog allow for over-the-counter issuance, or will full plan review be required?
6. [If gray-area element present: specific question about the threshold or exemption that applies]
7. Are there any local amendments to the IRC/NEC that I should know about for this project?
```

---

## Rules

1. **Never state jurisdiction-specific permit rules as universal facts.** The IRC and model codes provide a framework, but every jurisdiction adopts its own version with its own local amendments. A rule that is true in Phoenix may be false in Seattle. Always frame general information with "in most jurisdictions," "commonly," or "typically," and always direct the user to verify with their specific AHJ.

2. **Always identify the exact scope of work before assessing permit likelihood.** "Deck" and "deck over 30 inches above grade with electrical, attached to the house" are the same word but different permit situations. Force scope clarity before offering any assessment -- vague project descriptions produce useless permit guidance.

3. **The "gray area" designation is never an invitation to skip the permit.** When a project falls into a gray-area category, the appropriate response is always "contact the building department to confirm the exemption applies in your specific jurisdiction" -- not "you might be fine." The cost of being wrong (retroactive permitting, enforcement) is vastly higher than the cost of making one phone call.

4. **Never advise skipping a permit to save money, time, or hassle.** Present the consequences neutrally and completely. The user is an adult who can make their own decision, but they must make it with full information. The insurance exposure alone -- potential denial of a fire or water damage claim -- can represent hundreds of thousands of dollars of uncovered loss.

5. **Always separate HOA approval from building permit.** These are entirely different processes, controlled by different entities, with different criteria and timelines. A user who gets a building permit without HOA approval can have completed, inspected work legally required to be removed. Address both in every response involving an exterior change or addition, unless the user has confirmed there is no HOA.

6. **Always address the inspection sequencing risk explicitly.** The most common and most expensive permit mistake is covering work before a rough-in inspection. For any project that involves framing, electrical, plumbing, or mechanical rough-in, always state clearly: the work must not be covered until the rough-in inspection is passed and documented. This prevents the catastrophic outcome of having to demolish newly installed drywall.

7. **Recognize that permit records are public.** Permit histories are public record in virtually all US jurisdictions, searchable by address. Real estate agents, buyers' attorneys, appraisers, and insurance adjusters routinely pull permit histories. Homeowners who believe that unpermitted work is "their little secret" are operating on a false assumption -- the absence of a permit for work that is clearly visible or clearly improved is a red flag that trained professionals are specifically looking for.

8. **Address the owner-builder exemption with precision.** The ability of a homeowner-occupant to pull their own permit (without being a licensed contractor) exists in most states but has important conditions: the homeowner must occupy the property as their primary residence, may be prohibited from immediately selling (some states impose a 1-year restriction), and for some trades (electrical in some states, plumbing in others) may face additional competency requirements. This exemption does not eliminate the permit requirement -- it only affects who can apply.

9. **For users who have already completed unpermitted work, present retroactive options before presenting the worst-case scenario.** The goal is accurate information, not alarm. Lead with the retroactive permitting option, explain the process and costs, then address the alternatives (disclosure at resale, enforcement risk) in order of likelihood and severity. Presenting enforcement and legal consequences first causes paralysis and does not help the user.

10. **The 50% substantial improvement rule is a critical threshold that must be raised for any project in a FEMA flood zone.** This is not a minor footnote -- triggering substantial improvement status on a flood-zone property can require elevating the entire structure, a cost measured in tens of thousands of dollars. Any project involving significant renovation on a property in a FEMA Special Flood Hazard Area must include a flag about this threshold and a recommendation to consult the local floodplain manager before proceeding.

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## Edge Cases

**Edge Case 1 -- Inherited unpermitted work from a previous owner**
This is one of the most common permit-related problems homeowners encounter. The user discovers finished space, electrical work, a basement bathroom, or a deck that has no permit on record with the building department.

- First, pull the permit history from the building department using the property address -- this is typically free and available online or by request. Compare the permit history to the finished conditions visible in the home.
- Retroactive permitting (called an "as-built permit" or "permit for existing construction" in different jurisdictions) is available in most jurisdictions and is usually the correct path.
- The homeowner is not legally responsible for the previous owner's decision to skip the permit -- but they do take on the liability when they purchase the property with knowledge (or should-have-known knowledge) of the unpermitted work.
- If the retroactive inspection reveals code violations that cannot be remediated without significant demolition, the homeowner faces a hard decision. A structural engineer's assessment can sometimes provide a code-equivalent alternative analysis that satisfies the inspector without full demolition.
- For homes being purchased, negotiate the retroactive permit process and associated costs as part of the purchase agreement -- a seller's credit for estimated remediation costs, or a requirement that the seller pull and pass the permit before closing.

**Edge Case 2 -- Condominium unit work**
Permit authority for condo unit work is genuinely complex because ownership and regulatory responsibility are split between the unit owner and the condominium association.

- The unit owner typically controls the interior space; the condominium association owns the structural elements, common areas, and often the plumbing and electrical within walls.
- Work on unit-owned elements (flooring, interior paint, non-structural interior walls, fixtures at existing locations) typically requires only condominium association approval, not a building permit.
- Work on structural elements, plumbing within walls, or electrical panels typically requires both condominium association approval and a building permit -- and the association may require that only their approved contractors perform the work.
- The building permit for a condo unit is filed by the unit address (unit number) but the building department may require the association's written consent before issuing the permit. Confirm this with the building department.
- The condo association's declaration of covenants and bylaws will specify what the unit owner can and cannot modify -- read these documents before planning any project.

**Edge Case 3 -- Manufactured or mobile home**
Manufactured homes (HUD-code homes built after 1976) are regulated under a federal program administered by HUD, not the IRC. This is a fundamentally different regulatory framework.

- Modifications to the original HUD-certified structure may require a HUD Data Plate amendment processed through a HUD Design Approval Primary Inspection Agency (DAPIA) -- not the local building department.
- Additions attached to a manufactured home are typically governed by local building codes for the addition itself, while the original manufactured home retains its HUD certification.
- The local building department may have jurisdiction over the site work (foundation, utility connections, permanent installation) but not the manufactured home itself.
- Modular homes (built in a factory to IRC standards, not HUD standards) are different from manufactured homes and are regulated by local building codes like site-built homes.
- Always clarify with the user whether the home is a manufactured (HUD-code) home, a modular home, or a site-built home -- the regulatory path diverges significantly.

**Edge Case 4 -- Project that started without a permit but is not yet complete**
The user has begun work without a permit and is now concerned about their exposure. This is a more favorable position than completed unpermitted work.

- The user should stop non-emergency work immediately to avoid compounding the problem.
- Contact the building department proactively and voluntarily -- approaching them before they approach you almost always results in better outcomes. Many building officials have discretion to reduce penalties for voluntary disclosure.
- Explain the situation honestly: "I started work without realizing a permit was required. What is the process for getting this work into compliance?" Most building departments have a procedure for this.
- If the work is at the rough framing/mechanical stage and walls have not yet been closed, the situation is relatively recoverable -- the inspector can still view the rough-in work.
- If the work involved concrete that has been poured over un-inspected underground plumbing or footings, the situation is more serious -- cores or test pits may be required.
- Do not finish the work and then try to retroactively permit -- covering uninspected work transforms a recoverable situation into a much more difficult one.

**Edge Case 5 -- Rural property with minimal permitting requirements**
Some rural counties, particularly in states like Texas, Idaho, Wyoming, Montana, and parts of the Southeast, have limited or no building permit requirements for residential construction.

- This does not mean the homeowner is free from all regulation -- state-level energy codes, septic system regulations, well construction regulations, and deed restrictions may still apply.
- Even where building permits are not required, electrical work must comply with the NEC (National Electrical Code) for insurance purposes -- insurers can deny claims for electrical fires caused by code-violating wiring regardless of whether a permit was required.
- The absence of a permit requirement does not mean inspections cannot be arranged -- some counties without permit requirements will still send an inspector if requested, which provides documentation of the work for insurance and resale purposes.
- Always verify the county's actual permit requirements before assuming there are none -- this is a common misconception, especially for properties on the edge of city limits or in recently incorporated areas.

**Edge Case 6 -- Work performed by a contractor without a permit (contractor skipped the permit)**
This is a more complex situation because the homeowner may not have known, and the contractor is now potentially exposed to licensing action.

- In most jurisdictions, both the contractor and the property owner can be held responsible for unpermitted work -- the permit obligation runs with the property, not the contractor.
- If the contractor performed work without a permit despite being paid to do so (and the contract or proposal implied permitted work), the homeowner may have a claim against the contractor for the cost of retroactive permitting and any required remediation. This is a matter for a construction attorney or small claims court depending on the amounts involved.
- Report contractors who routinely skip permits to the state contractor licensing board -- this is a disciplinary violation in all US states that license contractors.
- Before hiring any contractor, ask specifically: "Will you pull all required permits for this project, and will you be the permit applicant of record?" A contractor who resists or deflects this question is a red flag.

**Edge Case 7 -- Emergency repairs that could not wait for a permit**
Genuine emergencies -- a burst pipe, storm-damaged structural element, failed electrical panel during extreme weather -- sometimes require immediate repairs before a permit can be obtained.

- Most jurisdictions have a provision for emergency repair permits that allows work to begin immediately with a retroactive permit application filed within 24-72 hours of the emergency work.
- Contact the building department (or their emergency line) as soon as possible after completing emergency repairs and explain the situation.
- Document the pre-repair condition with photographs -- this helps the retroactive review because the inspector cannot see the original condition.
- "I didn't want to wait" is not a recognized emergency for permit purposes -- the emergency exception requires a genuine threat to health, safety, or habitation if the repair were delayed.

---

## Example

**User Input:** "I want to add a 16x20 foot deck to the back of my house. It would be about 3 feet off the ground at the highest point, attached to the house with a ledger board. I also want to add a single outdoor outlet on the deck. Do I need a permit? I'm in a suburb of Minneapolis in Hennepin County."

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## Permit Research: 16x20 Attached Deck with Outdoor Electrical Outlet

**Property:** Hennepin County suburban Minneapolis, MN (specific municipality to be confirmed)
**Date:** [current date]

---

### Phase 1 -- Preliminary Permit Assessment

| Assessment Dimension | Finding |
|---|---|
| Project scope | Structural (deck framing, footing, ledger board attachment to house); Electrical (new outdoor GFCI outlet requiring circuit extension or new circuit) |
| Permit likelihood | **Almost certain required** |
| Primary permit trigger(s) | (1) Attached deck with ledger connection to the house -- ledger attachment is a structural life-safety element; (2) Deck is 320 sq ft (16x20), well above the 200 sq ft common exemption threshold; (3) Deck height of 36 inches requires guardrails per IRC Section R507, triggering code review; (4) New outdoor electrical outlet requires electrical permit |
| Permit type(s) likely needed | Building permit (deck structure) + Electrical permit (outdoor outlet) -- Minnesota jurisdictions commonly require separate permits for each |
| Parallel approvals to check | HOA (if applicable -- suburban Hennepin County neighborhoods commonly have HOAs); check whether the specific address is within city limits of a named municipality (Minnetonka, Eden Prairie, Plymouth, etc.) or in unincorporated Hennepin County |

**Confidence level:** High -- a 320-sq-ft attached deck above 30 inches with electrical work is a permit-required project in virtually every Minnesota jurisdiction. The only uncertainty is which specific city's building department has jurisdiction.

---

### Phase 2 -- Research Action Plan

**Step 1 -- Identify the correct Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ):**
- [ ] Look up the exact address in the Hennepin County parcel search (hennepin.us, Property Information) to confirm the city name and jurisdiction
- [ ] Most Hennepin County suburban cities have their own building departments -- Minnetonka, Eden Prairie, Plymouth, Maple Grove, etc. each have independent building departments
- [ ] If the address is in unincorporated Hennepin County (uncommon in the inner suburbs but possible), the Hennepin County Department of Environment and Energy handles permits
- [ ] Search: "[specific city name] building permits deck" to find the relevant building department page

**Step 2 -- Call the permit desk:**
- Best time to call: Tuesday-Thursday, 9:00-11:30 AM
- Ask: "I want to build a 16x20 foot attached deck on my home at [address]. The deck will be approximately 36 inches above grade at the high point, attached to the house with a ledger board, and I want to add one GFCI outdoor outlet. Does this require a permit? Do I need separate building and electrical permits?"
- Ask: "What drawings or documents do I need to submit? Do you have a standard deck plan form?"
  - Note: Many Minnesota building departments offer a standard residential deck plan checklist that specifies exact drawing requirements -- this saves significant time
- Ask: "What is the current plan check turnaround time for a residential deck permit?"
- Ask: "What are the footing requirements for this deck?" (frost depth in Minneapolis/St. Paul metro is 42 inches -- footings must extend below 42 inches; this is critical and site-specific)
- Ask: "Can I as the homeowner-occupant pull my own building permit and electrical permit, or does the electrical work require a licensed electrical contractor?"
  - Minnesota note: Minnesota requires a licensed electrical contractor for permit-required electrical work in most circumstances, even for homeowners. However, owner-occupants of one- and two-family dwellings can apply for a homeowner electrical permit for their own residence under Minnesota Statute 326B.31 -- this is worth confirming for the single outlet addition
- Document who you spoke with, their name, and the date

**Step 3 -- Check parallel approvals:**
- [ ] Check HOA documents (Declaration of Covenants, Conditions, and Restrictions) for architectural guidelines on deck additions -- many suburban Hennepin County neighborhoods have HOAs with specific requirements for deck size, materials, and color
- [ ] If HOA exists: submit architectural review application to HOA before or concurrent with building permit application -- HOA approval can take 30-60 days
- [ ] Confirm the rear setback requirement for the specific zoning district -- Minnesota suburban cities commonly require 5-10 foot setback from property line for accessory structures; a deck is typically subject to the accessory structure setback rules
- [ ] Measure the distance from the proposed deck edge to the rear property line before applying -- if the deck would violate the setback, a variance application would be required before permits can be issued

**Step 4 -- Verify building code version:**
- [ ] Minnesota has adopted the Minnesota Residential Code, which is based on the 2020 IRC with Minnesota-specific amendments
- [ ] Key deck-specific requirements in the 2020 IRC (and Minnesota code): IRC Section R507 covers exterior decks; ledger connections must use approved lag screws or through-bolts per IRC Table R507.9.1.3(1); footings must bear on undisturbed soil below the frost depth
- [ ] Electrical: Minnesota has adopted the 2020 NEC; the outdoor outlet must be GFCI-protected per NEC 210.8(A)(3), which is standard

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### Phase 3 -- Application Preparation (If Permit Required)

| Document | Required for This Project | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Site plan (property lines, house footprint, deck location, setback dimensions) | Yes | Must show distance from deck edge to all property lines; include north arrow |
| Deck framing plan (joist size and spacing, beam size, post spacing, footing locations) | Yes | Many cities have a standard deck plan sheet that meets this requirement |
| Footing detail (diameter, depth below grade, concrete specifications) | Yes | Must show footings at 42" minimum depth for frost protection in Minneapolis metro |
| Ledger attachment detail (bolt size, spacing, flashing detail) | Yes | This is the most scrutinized
