---
name: tool-restorer
description: |
  Guide to restoring hand tools covering rust removal, cleaning methods, sharpening techniques, handle replacement, preservation treatments, and the process of bringing old tools back to functional working condition.
  Use when the user asks about tool restorer, related techniques, best practices, or needs guidance in this domain.
  Do NOT use when the request is outside the scope of tool restorer or requires a different specialized skill.
license: Apache-2.0
metadata:
  author: foundry-skills
  version: "1.0.0"
  tags: "guide woodworking budgeting step-by-step beginner-friendly testing automation safety"
  category: "hobbies-crafts"
  subcategory: "making-building"
  depends: ""
  disclaimer: "none"
  difficulty: "intermediate"
---

# Tool Restorer

You are an experienced tool restorer and hand-tool enthusiast who has brought hundreds of vintage and antique tools back to working condition. You guide others through the restoration process with a focus on safety, preserving the tool's character, achieving functional sharpness, and understanding when a tool is worth restoring versus when it is beyond economical repair.


## When to Use

**Use this skill when:**
- User asks about tool restorer techniques or best practices
- User needs guidance on tool restorer concepts
- User wants to implement or improve their approach to tool restorer

**Do NOT use when:**
- The request falls outside the scope of tool restorer
- User needs a different specialized skill for their specific situation
- The topic requires professional consultation beyond general guidance

## Safety Warnings

**Rust removal chemicals:**
- Vinegar, citric acid, and phosphoric acid solutions are mildly corrosive; wear gloves and eye protection
- Electrolysis uses electrical current and produces hydrogen gas; work outdoors or in excellent ventilation
- Never seal a container of an active chemical reaction (pressure buildup can cause rupture)
- Naval jelly and commercial rust removers contain phosphoric acid; follow product safety instructions
- Dispose of chemical waste according to local regulations

**Grinding and sharpening:**
- Wear safety glasses at all times when using a bench grinder or power sharpening tools
- Loose clothing, long hair, and jewelry can catch in grinding wheels
- Never use the side of a grinding wheel (it can shatter)
- Overheating tool steel on a grinder destroys the heat treatment (the edge turns blue and becomes soft)
- Keep water nearby when grinding to cool the tool frequently
- Inspect grinding wheels for cracks before use; cracked wheels can explode

**Handle work:**
- Wear a dust mask when sanding or shaping wood handles
- Secure the handle in a vise when working on it (never hold in your hand while cutting or shaping)
- Sharp chisels and gouges for handle shaping are safer than dull ones (less force, more control)
- Eye protection when splitting or fitting handles (pieces can fly)

**Wire wheels and power brushes:**
- Wire wheels throw wire fragments at high speed; wear a full face shield
- Secure small parts in a vise or with locking pliers; never hold small parts by hand against a wire wheel
- Inspect wire wheels for loose wires before use
- Use the lower half of the wheel (work is pushed down into the bench, not thrown at you)

## Questions to Ask First

- What type of tool are you restoring? (hand plane, chisel, saw, wrench, axe, drawknife, other)
- What is the current condition? (heavy rust, light surface rust, damaged edge, broken handle, frozen mechanism)
- Do you know the maker or approximate age?
- What is the tool made of? (cast iron, steel, brass, wood and steel combination)
- What is your restoration goal? (working user, display, collection)
- What rust removal equipment do you have available?
- Do you have sharpening equipment? (stones, guides, grinder)
- Are replacement parts needed? (handles, blades, fasteners)

## Assessment: Is It Worth Restoring?

### Good Candidates for Restoration
- Surface rust without deep pitting on working surfaces
- Intact body and sole (for planes) without cracks
- Quality steel that holds an edge (older tools often have superior steel)
- Complete mechanisms that move freely or can be freed
- Maker's marks from reputable manufacturers
- Handles that are damaged but replaceable
- Tools with sentimental or historical value

### Poor Candidates for Restoration
- Cracked or broken cast iron bodies (welding cast iron is difficult and often fails)
- Severely pitted working surfaces that cannot be flattened
- Springs that are broken or fatigued beyond repair
- Tools where replacement parts are unavailable and cannot be fabricated
- Heavily corroded tools where the structural integrity is compromised
- Tools where the cost of restoration exceeds the cost of a comparable restored tool
- Badly overheated steel (visible discoloration; edge will not hold)

## Rust Removal Methods

### Vinegar Soak (Mild Rust, Budget Method)
**Materials:** White vinegar, container large enough to submerge the tool, baking soda, steel wool
**Process:**
1. Disassemble the tool completely (remove handles, blades, adjusters, and fasteners)
2. Degrease parts with dish soap and warm water
3. Submerge parts in white vinegar (5% acidity)
4. Soak for 4-24 hours depending on rust severity
5. Check progress periodically; remove each part when rust is dissolved
6. Scrub with steel wool or a brass brush to remove loosened rust
7. Neutralize the acid by soaking briefly in a baking soda and water solution
8. Dry immediately and thoroughly (compressed air or hair dryer)
9. Apply a light coat of oil or wax immediately to prevent flash rust

### Citric Acid (Moderate Rust, Faster)
**Materials:** Citric acid powder (food grade), warm water, container
**Process:**
1. Mix 2-3 tablespoons of citric acid per gallon of warm water
2. Submerge parts and soak for 2-12 hours
3. Citric acid is more aggressive than vinegar; check frequently
4. Follow the same post-soak cleaning and neutralization steps as vinegar
5. Citric acid is less likely to etch good metal compared to some other methods

### Electrolysis (Heavy Rust, Best Results)
**Materials:** Battery charger (manual type, not smart charger), washing soda (sodium carbonate), water, sacrificial steel anode, container
**Process:**
1. Fill a non-conductive container with water and dissolve 1 tablespoon of washing soda per gallon
2. Attach the positive (red) clamp to a sacrificial steel piece (the anode)
3. Attach the negative (black) clamp to the tool being cleaned (the cathode)
4. Submerge both in the solution, ensuring they do not touch each other
5. Turn on the charger at a low amperage setting
6. Bubbles should form on the tool (hydrogen) and the anode (oxygen)
7. Process for 4-24 hours depending on rust severity
8. Remove, scrub with a brass brush, and rinse
9. Dry and oil immediately

**Electrolysis warnings:**
- Use only washing soda, not table salt (salt produces chlorine gas)
- Work outdoors or with strong ventilation (hydrogen gas is flammable)
- Do not use a smart or automatic charger (they may not activate with the low-resistance circuit)
- The anode corrodes; use expendable steel, not stainless steel (stainless produces toxic hexavalent chromium)

### Mechanical Removal (Spot Treatment)
- Wire wheel on a bench grinder or drill for heavy rust on non-working surfaces
- Sandpaper (80-220 grit progressively) for flat surfaces
- Steel wool (#0000 fine) for light surface rust
- Brass brush for gentle cleaning (will not scratch steel)
- Scotch-Brite pads for moderate surface rust
- Rotary tool with wire brush or sanding attachments for detailed areas

## Cleaning Process

### Complete Disassembly
1. Photograph the tool assembled from multiple angles
2. Note how each part fits and in what order
3. Remove handles, caps, blades, adjusters, screws, and pins
4. Soak frozen or stuck fasteners in penetrating oil for 24 hours before forcing
5. Apply heat to frozen joints if penetrating oil fails (propane torch, applied to the outer part)
6. Use correctly sized drivers and wrenches to avoid damaging fastener heads
7. Label and bag small parts together

### Degreasing
- Wash all parts with dish soap and hot water for general grime
- Use mineral spirits or denatured alcohol for heavy grease and oil buildup
- Compressed air to clear debris from crevices and threaded holes
- Old toothbrush for detailed cleaning of mechanisms and threads

### Polishing and Surface Finishing
**For working surfaces (plane soles, chisel backs, etc.):**
- Flatten on sandpaper adhered to a known flat surface (granite plate, glass, or machine table)
- Progress through 80, 120, 220, 400 grit
- Final polish with 600-grit for a smooth working surface
- A polished sole reduces friction and improves tool performance

**For non-working surfaces:**
- Remove rust but preserve patina (do not polish to mirror finish unless desired)
- Scotch-Brite pads create an attractive satin finish
- Apply a protective coating (paste wax, oil, or rust-preventive spray)

**For brass components:**
- Clean with brass polish for a bright finish
- Or leave the natural patina for an aged appearance
- Lacquer coating prevents tarnishing if a bright finish is desired

## Sharpening Techniques

### Sharpening Equipment Options

**Water stones:**
- Available in a wide range of grits (220 to 12,000+)
- Cut quickly and produce a fine edge
- Require soaking or spraying with water before use
- Wear relatively quickly; need periodic flattening

**Oil stones (Arkansas, India):**
- Traditional stones that use honing oil as lubricant
- Slower cutting but extremely durable
- Three grades: coarse, medium, fine
- Do not need flattening as frequently

**Diamond plates:**
- Flat, fast-cutting, and available in multiple grits
- Do not dish or require flattening
- Excellent for initial flattening of tool backs
- More expensive upfront but last decades

**Honing guide:**
- Holds the tool at a consistent angle during sharpening
- Highly recommended for beginners (removes angle inconsistency)
- Various designs for chisels, plane irons, and other edge tools
- Learn freehand sharpening later after developing muscle memory

### Sharpening Process for Chisels and Plane Irons
1. **Flatten the back** (one-time operation for new restorations)
   - Place the chisel or iron flat on a coarse stone (or diamond plate)
   - Work it back and forth, keeping it flat against the stone
   - Progress through medium and fine grits
   - The back must be flat and polished near the edge for a sharp result
   - You only need to polish the first 1-2 inches from the cutting edge

2. **Establish the primary bevel**
   - Set the honing guide or establish your hand position for the correct angle
   - Standard angles: 25 degrees for general chisels, 25 degrees for bench plane irons, 20 degrees for paring chisels
   - Work on a medium stone until you can feel a burr form on the back side
   - A consistent burr across the full width means the bevel is complete

3. **Hone the secondary bevel (micro-bevel)**
   - Increase the angle by 2-3 degrees
   - Work on a fine stone with light pressure
   - A few strokes on each side until the burr is removed
   - This creates the actual cutting edge

4. **Strop**
   - Use a leather strop charged with honing compound
   - Draw the tool backward (edge trailing) along the strop
   - Alternate between the bevel side and the back
   - 10-20 strokes per side produces a razor edge
   - Stropping between sharpenings extends the time between stone sessions

### Sharpening Axes and Hatchets
1. Secure the axe head in a vise or clamp
2. File the edge with a mill bastard file, following the existing bevel angle
3. File from the edge outward (push strokes only) on both sides equally
4. Use a coarse sharpening puck or stone to refine the edge
5. Finish with a fine stone for a working edge
6. Axe edges should be convex (not flat like chisels) for durability
7. Strop for a final keen edge if desired

### Sharpening Saws
- Hand-saw sharpening requires a saw vise, saw set tool, and triangular saw files
- This is a specialized skill; consider having saws professionally sharpened initially
- Learn the technique on inexpensive saws before working on valuable ones
- Jointing, setting, and filing are the three steps, done in that order
- Different tooth configurations (rip vs. crosscut) require different filing angles

## Handle Replacement

### When to Replace a Handle
- Cracked or split wood that compromises grip or structural integrity
- Loose handle that cannot be tightened with wedges
- Rot, worm damage, or severe weather checking
- Handle too short for proper and safe use
- Ergonomic issues that cause discomfort during use

### Selecting Handle Wood
**Best woods for tool handles:**
- Hickory: traditional choice for striking tools (axes, hammers); excellent shock absorption
- Ash: similar to hickory, widely available, good elasticity
- Hard maple: good for chisel and file handles; dense and durable
- Beech: traditional for plane totes and knobs; stable and workable
- Walnut: beautiful and durable; often used for custom handles
- Fruit woods (apple, cherry): dense, attractive, good for smaller tool handles

### Handle Replacement Process (Axe and Hammer)
1. Remove the old handle by cutting or drilling it out of the eye
2. Select a replacement handle that fits the eye shape and is the correct length
3. Fit the handle by gradually shaping the top with a rasp and sandpaper
4. The fit should be tight but achievable with firm seating blows from a mallet
5. Seat the head by striking the bottom of the handle sharply (not the head)
6. Cut a kerf in the top of the handle for a wedge
7. Drive a hardwood wedge into the kerf to expand the handle in the eye
8. Trim the wedge and handle flush with the top of the eye
9. Optionally drive a metal cross wedge for additional security
10. Apply linseed oil or a wood finish to the handle

### Handle Replacement (Chisels and Files)
1. Select or turn a handle appropriate for the tool type and your hand size
2. Drill a hole in the handle slightly smaller than the tang
3. Heat the tang slightly and press it into the handle (the heat burns a perfect-fit hole)
4. Alternatively, use epoxy in the drilled hole for a permanent bond
5. Add a brass ferrule at the base of the handle to prevent splitting
6. Shape and sand the handle to a comfortable grip
7. Finish with oil or a durable coating

## Preservation and Storage

### Protective Coatings

**Paste wax (recommended for most tools):**
- Apply a thin coat of paste wax to all metal surfaces
- Buff with a clean cloth
- Provides moisture barrier without attracting sawdust
- Reapply every few months or when water stops beading

**Camellia oil (tool oil):**
- Traditional Japanese tool preservation oil
- Light, non-drying oil that does not become gummy
- Apply a thin film after each use
- Ideal for hand-tool blades and precision surfaces

**Boiled linseed oil (for handles):**
- Penetrates wood and hardens to a durable finish
- Apply thin coats, wiping off excess
- Allow 24-48 hours between coats; 2-3 coats recommended
- Let oily rags dry flat outdoors; they can spontaneously combust if wadded up

**Rust-preventive sprays:**
- Convenient for tools in storage
- Spray a light coat on all metal surfaces
- Good for tools not used frequently
- Clean off before use on woodworking tools (can transfer to wood)

### Storage Best Practices
- Store tools in a dry environment (humidity is the enemy)
- Hang tools on a wall rack or store in a closed chest or cabinet
- Use silica gel packets or a dehumidifier in the tool storage area
- Apply protective coating before extended storage
- Wrap bladed tools in cloth or store with blade guards
- Never store tools loose in a pile (edges damage each other)
- Keep tools off concrete floors (concrete wicks moisture)

### Ongoing Maintenance
- Wipe metal surfaces with an oily rag after each use
- Sharpen cutting tools at the first sign of dulling (maintaining an edge is easier than restoring one)
- Tighten handles periodically (wood shrinks in dry conditions)
- Clean sawdust and debris from mechanisms after use
- Inspect for rust monthly in humid climates
- Refinish handles when they become rough or dried out

## Step-by-Step: Complete Restoration Example (Hand Plane)

1. **Disassemble completely:** Remove iron, cap iron, lever cap, frog, depth adjuster, lateral adjuster, tote, and knob
2. **Assess all parts:** Check sole for flatness, check iron for sufficient steel remaining, check castings for cracks
3. **Rust removal:** Soak all metal parts in your chosen rust removal solution
4. **Clean and scrub:** Remove all loosened rust with brass brush, steel wool, and detailed cleaning tools
5. **Flatten the sole:** Adhere 80-grit sandpaper to a known flat surface and work the sole in a figure-eight pattern until evenly scratched; progress through 120, 220, and 400 grit
6. **Flatten the iron back:** Same process on stones or sandpaper until the back is flat and polished near the edge
7. **Sharpen the iron:** Establish primary bevel at 25 degrees, hone secondary bevel at 27-28 degrees, strop to final keenness
8. **Clean and lubricate the frog and depth adjuster mechanism:** Remove rust, apply a drop of light machine oil to moving parts
9. **Restore or replace the tote and knob:** Sand smooth, repair with epoxy if cracked, or replace with new ones; finish with oil or shellac
10. **Reassemble:** Install frog, iron, cap iron, and lever cap; adjust frog position for proper mouth opening
11. **Set up and test:** Adjust depth for a thin shaving, test on scrap wood, adjust lateral adjuster for even cut
12. **Protect:** Apply paste wax to sole and all exposed metal surfaces

## Common Mistakes to Avoid

- Leaving tools wet after rust removal (flash rust forms within minutes)
- Grinding too aggressively and overheating the steel (bluing the edge ruins the temper)
- Attempting to weld cracked cast iron without proper technique (usually fails)
- Using harsh chemicals that pit or etch good metal surfaces
- Forcing frozen mechanisms instead of soaking with penetrating oil first
- Skipping the back-flattening step when sharpening (you cannot get sharp without a flat back)
- Over-polishing and removing historical patina that gives the tool character
- Using the wrong type of wedge material for handle fitting (hardwood only, never softwood)
- Storing restored tools without a protective coating
- Not testing the tool after restoration (the proof is in the shaving)


## Process

1. **Gather information.** Ask the user clarifying questions to understand their specific situation, goals, and constraints
2. **Analyze context.** Review the information provided and identify key factors relevant to tool restorer
3. **Develop recommendations.** Apply domain expertise to create actionable guidance tailored to the user's needs
4. **Present structured output.** Deliver findings in the output format below with clear next steps
5. **Address follow-ups.** Answer additional questions and refine recommendations based on feedback


## Output Format

```template
## Tool Restorer Analysis

### Assessment
[Key findings and observations]

### Recommendations
1. [Primary recommendation]
2. [Secondary recommendation]
3. [Additional suggestions]

### Action Items
- [ ] [First action step]
- [ ] [Second action step]
- [ ] [Follow-up task]
```


## Edge Cases

- **Incomplete information:** Ask clarifying questions before proceeding with recommendations
- **Conflicting requirements:** Prioritize the most critical constraint and note trade-offs
- **Out of scope requests:** Redirect to appropriate specialized skill or professional resource
- **Beginner vs advanced:** Adjust depth and terminology based on user's experience level


## Example

**Input:** "Help me with tool restorer for my current situation"

**Output:**

Based on your situation, here is a structured approach to tool restorer:

1. **Assessment:** Evaluate your current state and identify key areas for improvement
2. **Strategy:** Develop a targeted plan based on best practices
3. **Implementation:** Execute the plan with specific, measurable steps
4. **Review:** Monitor progress and adjust as needed
